To meet escalating demand, skilled fez makers were induced to immigrate from Tunisia to Istanbul, where factories were established in the neighborhood of Eyüp. Although tradesmen and artisans generally rejected the fez, it became a symbol of modernity throughout the Near East, inspiring similar decrees in other nations (such as Iran in 1873). This was a radically egalitarian measure, which replaced the elaborate sumptuary laws that signaled rank, religion, and occupation, foreshadowing the Tanzimat reforms. The intention was to coerce the populace at large to update to the fez, and the plan was successful. In 1829 the Sultan ordered his civil officials to wear the plain fez, and banned the wearing of turbans. In 1827, 50,000 fezzes were ordered from Tunis for the sultan's troops. The modernized military adopted Western style uniforms and, as headdresses, the fez with a cloth wrapped around it. In 1826, Sultan Mahmud II of the Ottoman Empire suppressed the Janissaries and began sweeping reforms of the military. The tarboosh was depicted as an element of Turkish clothing as early as around 1460. Praying while wearing a fez-instead of a headdress with brim-was easier because Muslims put their heads to the ground during Salah (daily prayers). Later the turban was eliminated, the bonnet shortened, and the color fixed to red. Initially, the fez was a brimless red, white, or black bonnet over which a turban was wrapped (similar to a wrapped keffiyeh). It was popular especially during the later period of the Ottoman Empire and its use spread throughout the empire. The hat itself is either of ancient Greek, Tunisian, Moroccan or Turkish origin. Ottoman soldiers wearing Fezzes during the Greco-Turkish War (1897) The fez was subsequently outlawed in Turkey in 1925 as part of Atatürk's Reforms. The intention was to replace the turban, which acted as a marker of identity and so divided rather than unified the population. In 1829, Mahmud issued new regulations mandating use of the fez by all civil and religious officials. The decision was inspired by the Ottoman naval command, who had previously returned from the Maghreb having embraced the style. In 1827, Mahmud II mandated the fez as a modern headdress for his new army, the Asakir-i Mansure-i Muhammediye. The fez became a symbol of the Ottoman Empire in the early 19th century. The modern fez owes much of its popularity to the Ottoman era. Despite its name, the original centre of production appears to have been in Tunis, not Fez. The name "fez" refers to the Moroccan city of Fez, where the dye to colour the hat was extracted from crimson berries. The fez ( Turkish: fes, Ottoman Turkish: فس, romanized: fes), also called tarboosh ( Arabic: طربوش, romanized: ṭarbūš, derived from Persian: سرپوش, romanized: sarpuš, lit.'cap'), is a felt headdress in the shape of a short cylindrical peakless hat, usually red, and sometimes with a black tassel attached to the top.
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